The Different Types of Cotton: Where They Grow and Why They Matter
Cotton is one of the world’s most loved fibers. It shows up in everything from t-shirts and denim to bedsheets and dresses, but not all cotton is the same. In fact, there are multiple species grown around the world, and each type has unique characteristics that affect how it feels, how long it lasts, and how it impacts the planet.
Understanding these differences will help you to shop smarter, invest in higher-quality pieces, and appreciate the incredible diversity of this natural fiber.
A Quick History of Cotton
Cotton has been cultivated for thousands of years. Archaeological finds show cotton textiles in South Asia dating back over 5,000 years. According to Oko Farms, “Thousands of years ago, four separate species of cotton were domesticated by four different cultures in four different places in the world: Central America, the Andes, Arabia, Syria, and the Indus Valley.”
Today, cotton is grown in more than 80 countries and remains the backbone of the global textile industry. However, the species of cotton grown, and the way it’s farmed, vary significantly.
The Four Main Cotton Species
While there are more than 50 well-established cotton species, only four are commercially grown. Each one plays a different role in the fashion industry.
1. Upland Cotton (Gossypium hirsutum)
- Where it grows: The United States, China, India, and Brazil.
- Share of global cotton: About 90
- %.Characteristics: Short- to medium-length fibers, durable but not as silky as premium varieties.
- Uses: Everyday clothing, denim, basic t-shirts, home textiles.
Why it matters: Upland cotton is the most common, making it affordable and widely available. However, shorter fibers can pill more easily, and conventional farming often relies heavily on pesticides and water.
2. Egyptian Cotton (Gossypium barbadense)
- Where it grows: Along the Nile River Valley in Egypt.
- Share of global cotton: Small but prestigious.
- Characteristics: Extra-long staple (ELS) fibers, silky feel, strong, resistant to fraying.
- Uses: Luxury bedding, premium shirts, high-quality dresses.
3. Pima Cotton (Gossypium barbadense)
- Where it grows: Southwestern United States, Israel, Peru, and Australia.
- Share of global cotton: 3%
- Characteristics: Extra-long staple fibers, smooth texture, resistant to wrinkling and pilling.
- Uses: Premium t-shirts, dress shirts, upscale casual wear, luxury linens.
Why it matters: Pima is essentially the American cousin of Egyptian cotton, grown in different climates. It delivers the same high quality and durability, and when sourced responsibly, it’s a longer-lasting, more sustainable choice. Look for labels like Supima® to ensure authenticity.
4. Asiatic Cotton (Gossypium arboreum and Gossypium herbaceum)
- Where it grows: India, Pakistan, Indonesia, and South Africa.
- Share of global cotton: Less than 2%
- Characteristics: Shorter staple fibers, coarse feel compared to Pima or Egyptian.
- Uses: Traditional textiles, handwoven fabrics, some regional garments.
Why it matters: Asiatic cotton has been cultivated for centuries and remains important for heritage textiles. While not as soft as other varieties, it plays a vital role in local economies and supports traditional craftsmanship.
Beyond the Species: What It Means for Fashion
Looking at these four cotton species side by side, one thing becomes clear: cotton isn’t just a single fabric. The type of cotton grown affects not only how our clothes feel, but also how durable they are, how much impact they have on the environment, and even which communities they support.
Here’s how these species influence the bigger picture:
- Quality & Longevity: Extra-long staple cotton (like Egyptian and Pima) produces smoother, stronger yarns that resist pilling and last for years, making them better long-term investments.
- Comfort & Feel: Fiber length and fineness determine softness and breathability, which is why Egyptian cotton sheets feel silky while upland cotton feels sturdy and crisp.
- Environmental Impact: Different species thrive in different climates - some require more water or chemical inputs than others. Choosing organic or regionally suited cotton reduces strain on the environment.
- Transparency & Trust: Because cotton is often mislabeled, knowing which species you’re paying for helps avoid greenwashing and false luxury claims.
- Cultural Value: Asiatic cotton continues to support traditional weaving and dyeing practices, showing how fiber choice can preserve cultural heritage as well as livelihoods.
Practical Tips for Shoppers
So how do you take this knowledge from the field to your wardrobe? Here are some ways to shop smarter:
- Read the label: Look for mentions of “Pima,” “Supima®,” or “Egyptian” for premium cotton.
- Ask about sourcing: Brands that share details about their cotton species and farming practices are more transparent.
- Choose organic: Organic cotton, whether Upland or Pima, avoids harmful pesticides and often uses less water.
- Think long-term: Investing in higher-quality cotton means clothes that stay in your wardrobe longer.
- Support artisans: When you buy textiles made from Asiatic cotton, you’re supporting cultural traditions and local economies.
Why This Matters for Slow Fashion
Slow fashion is about more than style, it’s about knowing the story behind what we wear. By understanding the differences between cotton species, you can make better decisions that honor both the planet and the people behind the fabric. Whether you’re slipping into a Supima tee, enjoying the crisp feel of Egyptian cotton sheets, or supporting handwoven Asiatic textiles, you’re choosing more consciously.
The next time you see “100% cotton” on a label, remember: not all cotton is created equal. And as thoughtful shoppers, knowing the difference helps us build wardrobes that feel good, last longer, and reflect our values.